Tag Archives: Holland

Amsterdam

Euro Trip, , , , ,

TLDR Amsterdam was pretty amazing. This is a long post so here is a list of sub categories.

  • De Wallen
  • Van Gogh Museum
  • Foam Museum
  • National Maritime Museum
  • The windmill that was a pub
  • A Royal Send Off

After a relaxing day of recuperation at the Zuiver Spa I was able to hit the street of Amsterdam and explore this city which is known as the Venice of the North.

As per the trend I got lost trying to find the Mike’s Bike Tour company. But according to our bike tour guide Stuart this is completely normal. The curving streets of and canals of central Amsterdam make it incredibility easy to get turned around.

“You will get lost in Amsterdam this I can assure you”

Stuart ~ Mike’s Bike Tour Guide

One bad ass Amsterdam Bike
One bad ass Amsterdam Bike

Unlike Berlin the streets Amsterdam are a crazy mix of trams, cars, motor scooters, pedestrians and bikes. The streets are a very busy place and cars are the least of your worries (in my opinion). Luckily Mikes Bikes gave us a great preparation and everyone was able to navigate the streets properly.

Stuart absolutely filled our tour with this history of Amsterdam and gave me some awesome suggestions for my stay. His bike was also pretty bad ass.

As you might imagine Amsterdam’s history closely tied to shipping and the Dutch East India Company. With shipping came the prostitution, with the prostitution came the church. Which is why the church is also located in the historic De Wallen district.

Stuart also told me about a brew pub that was in a windmill near the National Maritime Museum which I will be eternally grateful for, but more on that later…

After the bike tour I took the blue boat canal tour that was included in my I Amsterdam pass. I’ve never been a fan of the pre-recorded audio tour, you can’t ask questions, they seem campy and cheesy. I found a spot on the back of the boat to photograph unobstructed. Luckily there was a local who was giving his friends a tour of the canals in english. I have always enjoyed the local perspective and he was quite gracious with his time for the few questions I had.

If I were to do the canal cruise again I would pay extra for a smaller boat tour which takes less people and comes with a tour guide. I feel you get better value for your time and money with a actual human you can chat with.

De Wallen

The historic De Wallen district of Amsterdam with the Basiliek van de H. Nicolaas in the background.
The historic De Wallen district of Amsterdam with the Basiliek van de H. Nicolaas in the background.
The red lit windows of the De Wallen district in Amsterdam on a Saturday night.
The red lit windows of the De Wallen district in Amsterdam on a Saturday night.

I spent Saturday Night walking around the De Wallen district. I hadn’t planned on visiting Amsterdam during a weekend. But that is just what happened. Don’t make the mistake I did if you are going to visit it on the weekend book your hotel well ahead of time. The De Wallen district on a Saturday night resembles Vegas and all of it’s hedonistic pleasure that are available to you.

I saw many a bachelor / bachelorette party running a muck, lookie loo, but very few actual punters looking for some company. No I didn’t part take in anything the De Wallen district might offer. I just spent the night walking around and had a few drinks and saw the most hilarious yet completely true marketing slogan ever.

Van Gogh Museum

The Van Gogh Museum on a beautiful sunny fall day in Amsterdam
The Van Gogh Museum on a beautiful sunny fall day in Amsterdam

I next morning I woke up early and hit the Van Gogh Museum. It truly was everything the guide books say and it didn’t disappoint I learnt about the strong bond Vincent and Leo Van Gogh had. How if it wasn’t so Leo’s support Vincent really wouldn’t have been able to live and create the way he did. I also was fortunate enough to see the rotating exhibition called Munch : Van Gogh which explored the relationships between the Edvard Munch and Vincent Van Gogh. But what was truly a highlight of the trip was that on one wall you had a a Monet, a Van Gogh and a Munch you could visually see the inspiration of each painter had on each other. I also got to see the pencil colour version of the scream on loan from Oslo.

Robert in front of a wall size portrait of Vincent Van Gogh.
Robert in front of a wall size portrait of Vincent Van Gogh.

I had wondered why the Van Gogh Museum didn’t allow any photographs of the artwork at the time I visited but once I visited The Louvre and the Musée d’Orsay I think I understood why. With everyone running around taking selfies with art work in paris, I felt that people really didn’t even look at the art work, they were just grabbing a poorly captured photo to say they were there. At the Van Gogh there was no camera’s allowed (except for the photo of my left) so people actually had to look at the art work.  I don’t really know if this was the defining factor or if the Amsterdam museums were just less busy but in hindsight it was a fabulous decision by the management. ( ps. I am no better btw I took a selfie with The Rhine the most expensive photograph in the world in Munich when I though no one was watching )

Foam Museum

The Magnum Contact Sheets at the Amsterdam Foam Museum
The Magnum Contact Sheets at the Amsterdam Foam Museum

The visual feast continues at the Foam Museum ( Fotografiemuseum Amsterdam  which is where you get the name foam from)  This relatively small museum in comparison to others in town came highly recommend by the guide at the VVV I amsterdam Visitor Centre Stationsplein. I was also lucky enough to be visiting the Museums during Magnum Contact Sheets show. For a former news photographer this is an treasure trove of art, culture and history. A contact sheet is a look into working process of the photographer during the time he shot the photo. What he first saw, what stuck him as important, how we worked the image.

I had seen many of the photos from my studies in photography. But seeing the contact sheets and having the ability to see the reverse side of the prints that were made and the notes that were made on the back was a view in the comments and annotations made to prints after it was selected. Both of these are gone in the digital era.

Troops landing at Omaha Beach on D-Day, June 6th 1944 (Photo Robert Capa / Magnum Photos )

Seeing Robert Capa’s photography from the Normandy Invasion was both impressive and poignant when you find out that a rookie lab tech screwed up most of his film from that invasion. Only 11 frames of 106 could be salvaged… Of those 11 frames 10 were impressive enough to be published in Life Magazine. What is was on those lost negatives only Robert Capa and a few life staffers knows.

Being able to see the works of Henry Cartier-Bresson, Larry Towell, Steve McCurry, Stuart Franklin, Philippe Halsman, Rene Burri and Frank Capa was just as memorial as seeing the impressionist masters I had visited in the morning.

The only reason I left the Foam Museum was because they were closing for the day.

The quality of the show and my history with news photography made this a perfect match but I’d suggest anyone with a interest in photography and going to Amsterdam check out this unassuming museum. I think you will be impressed I certainly was. I went back to the hotel full of inspiration but completely spent of any energy.

National Maritime Museum

A panorama of the beautiful courtyard at the of Dutch National Maritime Museum
A panorama of the beautiful courtyard at the of Dutch National Maritime Museum

I was told by Stuart my trust bike tour guide that if I was a sailor I would enjoy the Het Scheepvaartmuseum  ( Dutch Maritime Museum ). So the next day I decided to visit and again I was not lead astray. The museum was located in the old Dutch Navy headquarters in the building ‘s Lands Zeemagazijn (The Arsenal). A large glass roof was constructed over the courtyard in 1997 provides shelter from the elements. The building is absolutely beautiful both in and out.

Enjoying a rest in a hamock on the East Indiaman Amsterdam at the national maritime museum.
Enjoying a rest in a hamock on the East Indiaman Amsterdam at the National Maritime Museum.

I really enjoyed the maps and atlas dating from 14th century that doesn’t even show North America, to astrolabes from 16th century. The museum also has a huge collection of maritime paintings showing epic battles along with great collection of model yachts both new and old.

Outside the museum is the replica of the East Indiaman ship Amsterdam which is a complete replica cargo ship of the Dutch East India Company. I visited the ship but there is a chilly east wind coming in from Russia so I spent most of my time below decks chilling in a hammock!

I walked into a windmill that was a pub

The windmill that become a brew pub Brouwerij' ij
The windmill that became a brew pub Brouwerij’ ij

It was suggested to me that I skip the Heineken Experience if I was not a devote Heineken Fan or the sports they sponsor.  In addition to those two points the old brewery building doesn’t even brewing the beer anymore. I asked Stuart if there was any micro brew pubs and he suggest one that was housed in a windwill named Brouwerij ‘t IJ It was located just down the street from the maritime museum so I though I’d check out the local beer.

After ordering a flight of beer and checking into Untappd I over heard the distinct lingual tones of a English being spoken near me.

“My girlfriend doesn’t want a full pint can she order a small one”  ~ Richie
“No Sorry” ~ Bartender

Me having a great time in this pub I say:

“Your on vacation, have a full pint” ~ Robert
“That’s right I am on Vacation!” ~ Leanne

And so she did. That struck up a conversation which lead me to join the table and meet a group of scots, brits, irish and Spaniards. Through out the night a number of members of the commonwealth shared our table all we were missing were a couple aussies. I though we are in a pub right? and there aren’t any aussies?  Also Peter a friend of Leanne made an astute observation:

This is the longest I’ve ever spent in a windmill… Can’t say I have ever spent this many hours in a windmill before… ~ Peter

Not a truer wood had been spoken that night. While I had no intention of closing down a pub my last night in Amsterdam It certainly turned out to be the best choice made some new friends.

A Royal Send Off

I I wanted to check out the rights museum on my last day I knew I had made decisions that would only let me visit briefly the museum. So I arrived at the Rice museum in the full baggage in hand and I saw a lot of people gathered around a car waiting for someone to arrive I asked her what all the commotion is about and who is that arriving to the car. She replied in a very proudly:

“She is our Queen”
~ dutch women I was standing beside.

Queen Máxima of the Netherlands waves goodbye before leaving the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, Netherlands.
Queen Máxima of the Netherlands waves goodbye before leaving the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, Netherlands.

I got my cell phone out and captured about a dozen pictures before Queen Máxima of the Netherlands was wisked off down the street. Really there was only about 50 or 60 people who were casually walking buy who waiting to see her off. I just happen to randomly arrive at the exact moment she was leaving. I then asked a member of the media what she was doing there and was told she was opening up a conference being held in the building.

Unfortunately I couldn’t gain entry into the museum with my large luggage. I would have to leave it somewhere and come back. As fate would have it as soon I board the tram to the Centraal Station I found out my transit and museum pass had expired. ?

I knew leaving Rijksmuseum to the last day was a risk, and I knew I had to leave in under two short hours. So I knew I had to leave Amsterdam without seeing the national museum. But seeing the Queen of the Netherlands in person… Well that will certainly do.

I was happy with the choices I made in my visit to Amsterdam and you certainly can’t see everything. I would happily spend another afternoon in the Foam museum and miss the Rijksmuseum if given the choice of either / or.

Plus this gives me amble reason to visit again, I hope I get the chance.

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The most relaxing place on earth

Euro Trip, , ,

TLDR If you need a day off in Amsterdam go to the Zuiver Spa. It’s the most relaxing place I have been in the entire world.

I had arrived in Amsterdam from Berlin completely spent. I had made the common mistakes of European Travel. Trying to see too much in a day and not drinking enough water. Museums are dry places as the moisture can ruin exhibits. So spending all day in a museum is kinda like a desert.

Not wanting to leave the bed my first day in Amsterdam I knew I had to recoup or the rest of my Amsterdam stay would be at risk or even worse the dreaded “European Vacation Cold”

I dragged myself downstairs for breakfast and then asked the front desk about a sauna / hot tub. Nothing existed on site. But they told me about this place called the Zuiver Spa.

I did some checking on the Internet and got a deal online for buffet lunch, drink of my choice and access to all facilities for the entire day.

View of the spa building from the other end of the pool. (photo zuiver spa)
View of the spa building from the other end of the pool. (photo Zuiver spa)

I arrived and was asked if I had ever been to a spa before replying no they said the pool and the saunas are fully nude and I was giving a bath robe, two towels and a plastic bag to keep the towels in. When I heard the word nude I really didn’t care, I just wanted to feel relaxed at the end of the day. For those a little shy you can visit on swimsuit day which are on Tuesdays.

I was also giving a water proof rfid bracelet that identified me and my selected package. I would use it for everything inside and then pay for any extra’s at the end of my stay. This way you need to carry no cash, no credit, nothing to impeded you relation.

The unisex showers (photo zuiver spa)
The unisex showers (photo Zuiver spa)

I walked up stairs and had my first real surprise of the day all change rooms were unisex. You also used your bracelet to open and close a locker. Which was both confusing at first ( some instructions were only in dutch ) and completely smart all at the same time.

I went looking for the showers and nope they are down stairs in the main hall and yup unisex as well.

When in Rome… or Amsterdam as the case may be.

Since this was a nude spa no phones or devices were allowed at all. If you wanted to read, bring and old fashioned book, they also had magazines and newspapers available, but all are in dutch. I didn’t see to many people wearing watches as there was two large clocks available.

In this ever connected world all of these “rules” really forced you to disconnect from everything and RELAX.

Whirlpool area with outdoor sauna's in the background. (Photo zuiver spa)
Whirlpool area with outdoor sauna’s in the background. (photo Zuiver spa)

It only took me about 5 minutes to get use to the nudity and really it was only in the pools / tubs and sauna’s that you were out of your robe. I also saw very little fondling / kissing or hand holding between couples. In short time came to respect the fact that this place was only all about relaxation and wellness if you wanted other things go elsewhere.

The outdoor whirlpool was concaved to your fit the curve of your body. (photo zuiver spa)
The outdoor whirlpool was concaved to your fit the curve of your body. (photo Zuiver spa)

During my eight hour stay I tried a variety of pools, sauna’s they were all different temperatures and some played music while others were silent. Some were wet and others were dry.

I also tried a traditional Dutch sauna called a Löyly, also known as aufguss. Which involves water hot rocks and a saunameesters who waves around a large towel on a stick and really gets the air moving around. He also had this giant snowballs that had soothing menthol and eucalyptus that he would throw on to the hot rocks.

Dutch sauna or löyly, also known as aufguss. Which were a wonderfully relaxing. (photo zuiver spa)
Dutch sauna or löyly, also known as aufguss. Which were a wonderfully relaxing. (photo zuiver spa)

It was the godsend I was looking for. After the session they had orange slices and juice provided to replace the fluids you had lost. Their was also a cool mist that was sprayed over everyone.

For those brave enough their was also a cold waterfall you could cool off with.

A look down on the swimming pool from the second story juice bar. (photo zuiver spa)
A look down on the swimming pool from the upstairs lounge. (photo Zuiver spa)

I ended the most relaxing day of my entire life with a couple leisurely laps of their long swimming pool, a rinse under their “tropical rainforest shower” and then a small veggie plate for dinner in the up stairs lounge.

After changing I walked down stairs handed over my loyal rfid companion and was asked how did you enjoy your stay. I replied:

“It was the most relaxing day I have ever had in my entire life and were stupid for not having this in Canada”

Interior pools of the Zuiver Spa (photo zuiver spa)
Interior pools of the Zuiver Spa (photo Zuiver spa)

Price for this day long indulgent experience? € 40 Euros. I couldn’t believe it. I thought this would have cost double. I am glad it didn’t, the way the Europeans take care of both their body and minds is something we could all learn from.

I went to bed completely relaxed and woke up the next morning completely rejuvenated ready to see Amsterdam!

They also have a hotel attached where a visit to the spa is included with you stay, many dutch couples make a weekend out of it.

Since returning to Canada I’ve heard about the Scandinave Spa in Whistler which is a similar experience abet a swimsuit is required for our North American sensibilities. I actually can’t wait to try it out.

If my writings have helped you out, you can buy me a coffee or a beer via paypal: